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Uncorked

Wines and Ciders Make Fine Summer Sipping
By jurgen gothe
Publish Date: 24-Jun-2004

Elizabeth Ferber illustration

These are the ones we used to call the WYCPICASIs, the Wines You Can Put Ice Cubes And Stuff In: fresh, fruity, full-bodied sipping and gulping wines, often with a bit of sweetness, that stand up well to spritzing, sodafying, fruit-slicing, berry-dropping, or otherwise augmenting.

In the afterlife, these will all cost $5.95 each, with a case-lot discount. Today, we wouldn't really want to see one over $15 on this little list. And instead of running with the same old standards--Chardonnay, Pinot, Sauvignon--let's look at other grapes, even not-grapes.

Take Chasselas--also known as Fendant, Valais, Gutedel, Junker, Krachmost, Marzemina Bianca, or Zupljanka, depending on where it comes from--the 2003 Okanagan Mountain Park Fire model by St. Hubertus ($13.99). Nice and light, a touch of green-grassiness, very fresh, with a little lemon peel to the tip of the tongue. It's pretty good with those pasta salads that are a staple of the season: cold chicken with major pepper, yam fries, that sort of fare. Bright and full but not in your face with any sort of oak or acid, just really fresh and fruity and fun to drink.

Last December, Gehringer Brothers' "Classic" Schönburger/Gewürztraminer ($12.99) was the surprise hit of a portfolio tasting. The 2003 vintage has the same bold herb flavours: got tarragon there and even fresh oregano, and a little Muscat, all wrapped up in a rich and aromatic bouquet, but none of that underwear-drawer-sachet floral stuff; nice bite of crisp acid to it. The perfect spritzer wine, medium-dry and full and luscious. And the price, a steal.

Zweigelt is coming on strong in the Okanagan--so far the best is probably Tilman Hainle's Z3. Sizable plantings of it in Austria have proved very successful; Jancis Robinson dismisses it pithily as "rather hollow wine" in her big grapes book, but Benchland Vineyards Zweigelt 2001 from Penticton is a tasty little number currently available at the winery for $15. Good fruit, a little raspberry essence, some spice; the edges all softened out--we added a sugar cube soaked in orange vodka, just to see. This is hearty enough for the really fat ribs, dripping off the barbecue; smoked lentils with a touch of white-wine vinegar on the side; grilled polenta with fresh sage.

Sémillon is the great white grape of Bordeaux, responsible for excellent dry whites and even better sweet ones. So why, I wonder, hasn't anyone taken a run at it, late harvest­wise, in the Okanagan? In the meantime, the new Mt. Boucherie Estate Collection Semillon 2003 just hit the shelves at the LDB (another serious bargain, at $11.90). The label outlines "flavors of dried apricot, guava, tangerine and a slight herbal note", suggesting grilled oysters or steamed clams. We were thinking it might also make a pretty good sushi wine, but for straight sipping I'd plop in a drop or two of sugar syrup and a splash of soda. Good, crisp acid edge, with lots of round fruit flavours up front.

Ortega is a fairly recent German cross that ripens early and throws out a lot of sugar; it has taken off big time with the wineries of Vancouver Island. "Citrus and grapefruit," say Michael Betts and Linda Plimley of the Chalet Estate Vineyard 2003 Ortega ($14.90, in the tasting room at their tiny North Saanich operation--2,500 cases this year--across the road from the fabulous Deep Cove Chalet restaurant). They add a hint of the aforementioned Schönburger for even more aromatics, and all the ripeness and natural sugar make a lovely little breakfast wine. Or brunch, or afternoon sipping, stretching right into dinnertime. Every November there's a winemakers' dinner at the Chalet where all these wines are showcased. Never too early to book; call (250) 656-3541.

Suddenly we're all awash in tasty fruit wines. From the Fort Wine Company of Langley comes a delicious White Cranberry. It's brand-new, only at the winery shop so far (there's not a huge amount of it and there'll be even less since it just copped the people's choice award at the Festival of Wines in Surrey), nicely priced at $13.90. Fresh floral aroma, clean, intriguing first flavours--that whole white-cranberry thing establishes itself on the palate right off but there's nothing cloying about it. Add lots of ice, crushed berries, muddled mint, maybe even a sugar cube, drop of Angostura, and there's a great cocktail.

That's the six-pack, now comes a cider. There's cider and there's cider, right?

There's some sort of sweet fizz-pop that comes in beer-sized packs, and then there's stuff from places like Cobble Hill on Vancouver Island, where the Merridale Ciderworks does the real McIntosh or whatever real cider apples are called.

And now there's this relative newcomer from Kelowna--land of great apples--called Raven Ridge True Sparkling Cider. Winemaker and cider guy Roger Wong's state-of-the-art creation tastes so good--and true--they put it up in a heavy champagne bottle, punt and all, with a champagne cork and wire cage to keep the bubbles and flavours in until you want them to come out. Which they do with a huge pop.

This is serious stuff for good meals: Sunday dinners, patio parties, spicy stir-fries, salads, desserts. Pour it in a stem glass, well iced, and there's a whole new surprise treat. From the cidery in Kelowna and selected stores about town; it's worth calling around.

And now I have one more six-pack for you--sodas--but space is up and they'll keep in the fridge for another time. Just look around for the name Boylan's.

You'll be amazed by what you taste.

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Wines and Ciders Make Fine Summer Sipping

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